I was informed that they only checked the heating element. I received the unit back in the exact same condition that I sent it in. They coordinated with firefly to have my unit sent in. I bought my device through a third party vendor. With an empty bowl, switch to concentrate mood and activate the buttons.you should see the glowing red-orange behind each of the holes in the pattern once it's heated. And really, I go until the green light turns off (auto=30 secs).Īnd as sticks points out below, check for clogged holes. That's why everyone is recommending that long, slow draw. You need just the right amount of air flow, passing over the heating element/coil, and through your materials. Going further, I also notice that when I'm drawing too hard, either a) the whistling fades away and I just hear the whoosh of my draw, or b) I'm getting a LOT of air and minimal vapor. Sometimes it takes me more than once, but best believe I do it because when I achieve that optimal draw resistance I get fantastic pulls. The air will move too quickly through and over your material and you will not properly heat your bowl at the desired temp. If that seal is not great (believe me, very easy to not seat that magnetic lid just right), you will get airflow. That's where the whistle comes in for me. With a good pack (of higher grade material), a clean mouthpiece and a great seal - the only remaining variable is the draw. I could also describe the vapor as being "heavier" when compared to just reg. Also, you should be able to taste your vapor. But like I said, when you're at the sweet spot, you achieve the right draw resistance (which is actually logical to me: the stronger the pull, the more goodies extracted from material) and you can feel whether you're getting that vapor or, well, just hot air. When there's too much ambient noise I obviously cannot hear the whistle. This can be felt, literally, via draw resistance. When I pull too hard, I cannot hear the whistle anymore. When I pull too softly, it might barely whistle and I cannot sense hot air or vapor. for me, the most indicative "landmark" on the path to a good hit is a high-pitched whistle that emits from the mouthpiece. But I only fill to the brim.at most I'll fill enough that when I tamp down with the lid it fits nice and level. coarse grind (the more ground up my herb is, the faster it vaporizes and also less production on the back-end/ending hits of the us, it creates a mess, effects air path, AHH. I had trouble with consistency in the beginning-BUT, I had faith after having a couple good hits in between some really poor ones. I'm gonna go out on a limb (there are others really great at trouble-shooting) and highlight two, overarching variables to have on lock before getting worried. What's great about the FF2's simplicity is that I can tell relatively quick when the airflow is messed up. ![]() More specifically, the user really making sure they've got a good seal before going in! Sometimes, when there's music playing or it's noisy I can mis-seat the top lid and not notice until a good 10 seconds in (I will elaborate on the noise affecting my usage shortly). Hopefully we can get you tuned in, or at least know strongly that it should go back for repairs.Īs mentioned above, air flow is key! What has riddled a good number of pages back there is lid issues. We'll help best we can with our input and suggestions. For the Firefly 2 I'd be soooo much more comfortable if the electronics were located even 2-3 inches further from the heating element itself.Īs others before me have offered their support, I hope this helps. ![]() I have to say i hope that in the next generation of portable vapes manufacturers start to isolate the vapor path from the electronics completely. It might be a bit dangerous but I'd love to see a stress test of this heater while it's opened up and see if the temperatures of various components can be measured to see exactly what we're dealing with here. I could be wrong but I'd have to assume that so long as the circuit board isn't melting the solder should be ok as well since I would think the circuit board and solder in that picture have to be close to the same temperature when in heavy use. I also notice in your pictures that the circuit board is also extremely close to the heating element and solder/clips. ![]() If It's getting within even 50-100 degrees F of its melting point my concern begins to rise a lot. If the solder remains inert at its normal operating temperature then I'm not really concerned. My only concern here is how close the solder gets to its melting point.
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